What  a difference the sun makes. I feel like I dreamed the kamakazi surfers last night. Today the sea has lost its fizz and is slipping into shore rather than lashing out at every material thing. Blue sky, puffy clouds, but still overcoat cold. What turns on the happy vibe is, and I’m sorry to keep harping on about this but it’s true, the light. It makes every view, around every corner, look like a painting. So, I was compelled to keep turning corners and whiled away the entire afternoon smiling at quirky houses, dark-haired waiters and very old churches.

It’s strange being in a place that largely closes down during the winter. There are stirrings of activity, mind you. Shops that have been closed up for the past 6 months are being painted, or just spring-cleaned. An elder is washing hotel windows,  a task that may take forever as he seems to know every passer-by and has a ‘ca va?’ for each one. And I suspect that the Collioure-ians relish having the time to stop and talk before the summer influx.


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